May 06, back in Canada

Uneventful crossing into Manitoba this morning. Overcast skies and light afternoon rain were a welcome change. I’m staying with a friend of a friend of a friend in Winnipeg, planning to hang around a day. 

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May 05, 2015 at 08:15PM note

A pleasant, sunny, dry day. When disturbed, the dust hangs in the air like smoke. I should really start napping in the afternoons. Quit well before dark, enjoying the evening in Lancaster. I have traveled ~2000 miles so far.

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May 04, 2015 at 10:52PM note

I’ve been asked many times how i’m planning to cross ND. I’m not. Heading north through Minnesota. All big empty flat plains out here. Goodnight from Crookston

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Road food!

I’ve been out for a month now, and I’m still alive, so there are a few things perhaps you assume I’m doing. One of them may be feeding myself. 

Maybe you’ve eaten with me in the past, and maybe that went alright. Eating on the road is obviously different, and though I like making food (and eating food), cooking can at times feel like a hassle. It feels time consuming to turn on the stove, tricky to carry much variety of things, I haven’t mastered packing oil without spilling it so cooking means using water (I know this is easy to solve, and I have an idea)… 

Most of my calories are carbohydrate or peanut based. I snack a lot, I usually have raisins and peanuts (and/or other dried fruit and nuts) and maybe some other sort of snack in my handlebar bag. I think I’ve been eating more and more as time goes, perhaps I am hungrier or perhaps I’m just not as eager to start moving again when I stop as I was in the beginning, and for sure I am better at snacking while riding-so I munch a bit when I need more stimulation than the road alone can provide.

Here are some meals:

I eat a lot of couscous, which doesn’t need to be heated, it just soaks up water when presented with it and becomes edible. Adding prunes, olives, walnuts, and salt helps too. A pot of food is two or three meals.

  

I sometimes carry dehydrated bean mush, which also rehydrates readily, and will mix it with the couscous for more flavor and protein and fat and whatever. There are also prunes in here, this was tasty.

  

I usually have a sweet potato, and they are worth turning the stove on for. Pictured here with couscous and a little rehydrated beans

  

Rolled oats also don’t need to be heated to soak up water and be good to eat. Bean mush may also be tasty with oats and peanut butter.

  

Spaghetti can be had from most gas station/convenience stores. I (always so far) cook it with sweet potato, I find they need about the same time, and don’t drain the water. Here I added peanut butter and salt and it got saucy and wonderful. Think of it as peanut noodles, it isn’t that weird, I promise

  

If I’ve got greens I’ll put them in. They don’t travel well, but aren’t so hard to come by and I should really get them more often. This noodle soup contains sweet potato, spinach, nutritional yeast, water and salt.

  

This rainy windy day I stopped at a grocery store and consumed a small bread, a tub of hummus and half a bunch of kale. Perhaps not surprisingly those fake sausage things weren’t that great out of the package, but they held up pretty well stuffed in my bag for a week or so till I cooked them while staying with a friend. (some fake sausage things are fine out of package, though it is not a thing I am in the habit of purchasing)

  

This is my favorite.

  

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April 30, 2015 at 09:04PM note

I felt very good today. Made good time on the last 105 or so miles to Fargo, got here before dark even.

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April 29, 2015 at 10:28PM note

A beautiful day in central Minnesota. I spent a good chunk of it on the Lake Wobegon Trail. There are many lakes out here. Stopped just past Alexandria tonight.

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April 28, 2015 at 07:52PM note

Didn’t do the best at visiting minneapolis but i saw it some. Felt good to be moving again. Tired from staying with late night people. Camping near Clearwater.

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Wisconsin

I was in Wisconsin for over a week, and though that isn’t enough time to see all of, it is some and I have enjoyed it.

This is what the state route signs look like! I am very interested in what shape each state uses, though have not recorded too many for you


 

I stayed in a hostel in Chicago. I feel good about this choice. I shared a room with two women, Avni, from India in town for an architecture conference, and Rachelle, from Detroit in for alumni obligations at Northwestern, both of whom I much enjoyed talking to. It was lovely to talk about travel and places and lives (as a generalization).

I had planned to stop before getting into Wisconsin that night, at the Illinois Beach State Park Campground perhaps, but I got there and didn’t feel like stopping, so I went on. I was looking for a place to stop as I got into Kenosha… I’m sure my impression of a place depends a lot on what I’m looking for when I get there. For example, I’m happy to come into a town when I’m looking to take a break during the day, as there may be parks or shady places to sit for a bit. When I am looking for a place to camp, rolling into a city is pretty unwelcome. So maybe Kenosha is a nice place. I can’t honestly say. It felt dirty and full of people and it was not where I wanted to be. I wasted time looking, I should have just rushed to the other side. Eventually (out of Kenosha) I was pointed to an overlook park, right against the water, listened to waves all night, and watched the sun appear out of the lake in the morning. (I recognize that the city was there long before me and I have no right to disapprove of its existance)

I didn’t have far to go to get into Milwaukee the next day. (Milwaukee is bigger than Kenosha, but I knew where I was sleeping and did enjoy my stay.) The rest of that day was pretty relaxed. I ate things and explored a little and my friend B took me out to some places and I met more people. B and Ashanti both were not working Saturday and we all went to The Domes (three glass dome botanical garden type place, each dome being a different climate environment), then over to the Milwaukee Bike Collective for a little bit, then to a building somewhere full of art galleries which were open and we walked through them and looked at many different art (there were six floors each with a few separate studio or gallery spaces) and munched snacks. I did very little exploring on my own in Milwaukee, which is nice, socially, but means that the map in my head of this city is quite lacking. 

Domes from the outside

  

From a bridge which we crossed going between the domes and the bike collective

 

The ride between Milwaukee and Madison was straight forward, and I was on trails for a lot of it. The second trail, which I picked up in Waukesha, was the Glacial Drumlin State Trail. I’d never heard of a state trail before, which is I guess like a state park, and wants admission fee. Drumlins, I learned, are little cigar shaped hills left by retreating glaciers. I feel like Wisconsin has a solid (topographical) relationship with glaciers. I later passed through the Driftless region, driftless referring to the fact that it wasn’t flattened by the glaciers like everywhere else. 

I got to Madison late Sunday evening. I learned much about Wisconsin while I was in Madison. Most museums are closed on Mondays, this is a thing I learned. I saw some small art exhibits in the Overture Center, (though most of the building and the adjoining Contemporary Art Museum were not open and I didn’t try them the next day) and I wandered around the Capitol area for a bit, then went out to the Geology Museum on the UW campus. Lots of rocks and historical land formation type stuff here, but also a lot of fossils. I thought a bit about how much we can learn from them (as demonstrated by the explanations and extrapolations in front of me there) and how much more there must be that we are missing that we can never know. I hung around Madison another day and went to the Aldo Leopold Nature Center and to the Wisconsin History Museum (and played games with Charles and Tara). The history museum had a whole half a floor devoted to bikes-their development (physically and culturally) and Wisconsin’s role. Did you know that bicycle riding is even more popular of an activity than hunting there? And that I could have (though didn’t choose that route) ridden on the first ever rail-trail (the Elroy-Sparta State Trail)? The rest of the museum taught me about early Wisconsin life and industry, of various immigrants and native peoples, and such. 

 

Madison, state capital

  

Inside the Aldo Leopold Nature Center was information about climate change and the impacts and how we can measure things. Outside were some trails to wander and observe things.

 

Mt. Horeb is home to a Duluth Trading Co. store which holds a small tool museum. I stopped there to look at these tools. It is also the troll capital, I hear, there were many troll figures along Main St. I also sat in the food coop for a snack for a bit. There was some snow dark sky and heavy wind this day. Skies cleared in the evening and I saw very many stars from the campground in Lone Rock where I slept (and woke and went out of the tent to pee and look at stars ~2am). 

these are some trolls, it was cold and I did not linger

The rural areas that I went through were beautiful. This is getting really long, I think, though, and there perhaps aren’t so many details to go into anyway.

I came through the town of Viroqua, which you can be sure is in the “driftless” part of the state because of how many times the word is used in naming things (Driftless Cafe, Driftless Traders, Driftless Anglers, Drifless Bookstore, etc). I really liked this town, as do many other people, I gathered, there are a lot of folks moving there. There are still only about 4400 people living there, and lots of cool things going on. The frame maker at Driftless Traders offered that I could sleep in the shop and so I did, and so had a chance to eat at the local organic-y restaurant and have a beer with one of the bike shop guys and visit the community radio station (which has 80 volunteer djs), get more snacks at the food co-op, etc.

 

Some of these hills just stand alone, seemingly cropping up out of nowhere. It is beautiful


I reached the great river, which is magnificent. There are islands in some places far enough off to warrant those telescope things at the road pull off overlook spots, through which I viewed pelicans and herons and other creatures.

  
I crossed the Mississippi and now I’m in Minnesota, which maybe I’ll also write about someday. 

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April 25, 2015 at 10:33PM note

I crossed the Mississippi, which i think means i’m really going west. Communication stress, though mostly in my head. Stopped for the night near Apple Valley

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April 24, 2015 at 08:03PM note

Wind didn’t fight me today. Traversed some beautiful Wisconsin, found the Mississippi River and i’ve been following it north. Camping at Merrick State Park.

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